Most of the Northern part of the Apennines is made of a marl-sandstone formation, which is characterized by visible layers of rocks where the vegetation is lacking.
While sandstone can form very resistant slabs, marl is very friable and this makes it unsuitable for climbing activities.
However, thanks to ancient geological movements (around 20 million years ago), some limestone rocks have arrived to this region too. Now they are all lined-up: Mount Fumaiolo, Balze di Verghereto, San Marino, Sasso Simone and Simoncello, San Leo, Perticara, Scorticata, etc.
Below you will find a list of the most famous cliffs that you can easily reach from the Self-Sufficiency Farm.
-RIPA DELLA MOIA-Mount Fumaiolo
Travel directions: the distance from the Farm is 30 km and it takes around 40 minutes by car. Take European Route E45 toward Rome and then take the exit “Canili-Balze”. Once you have reached the small town of “Le Balze”, turn right and follow the signs to Monte Fumaiolo. After few kilometers you will find the sing “Rifugio Moia” and a parking area. After parking your car, you can get to the cliff in few minutes by following the track and climbing over the fence.
Number of routes: 15
Height: 1.200 m
Type of rock: limestone
Travel directions: the distance from the Farm is 30 km and it takes around 40 minutes by car. Take European Route E45 toward Rome, take the exit “Canili-Balze” and then follow the signs to “Le Balze”. When you arrive to “Ville di Montecoronaro” turn right until you reach Falera. Once you have passed the small town of Falera, turn left on the dirt road that you find before the sign “Balze”. Go down the road for about 450 m and it will take it straight to the cliff.
Number of routes: 86.
Height: 1.100 m
Orientation: different orientations
Type of rock: limestone
-PENNABILLI: this cliff is located within the town center of Pennabilli and it has a low difficulty grade which makes it particularly indicated for beginners.
Travel directions: the distance from the Farm is 46 km. Take European route E45 toward Cesena, take the exit “Sarsina” and then follow the signs to Sant’Agata Feltria and finally Pennabilli. Once you have reached the city center, take the road on the right, go ahead for about 160 m and you will find yourself at the foot of the cliff.
Number of routes: 23
Height: 630 m
Type of rock: compact limestone
-PERTICARA: Perticara is one of the most beautiful and famous cliff of the area. The cliff is located at the foot of a rock that overlooks the town.
Travel directions: the distance from the Farm is 32 km and it takes around 40 minutes by car. Take State Route SS3bis toward Sarsina and then follow the signs to Perticara. Once there, follow the signs to “Museo Minerario” (Mining Museum). About 60 m before arriving to the Museum you will be able to see the cliff.
Number of routes: 28
Height: 830 m
Type of rock: very compact sandstone with good grip
-MONTE AQUILONE: recent cliff near Perticara.
Travel directions: Reach the town of Perticara (see above) then follow the signs to “Monte Aquilone”. As soon as you get close to a small group of houses follow the track along the town wall. Once arrived to the wood you will find a rock that marks a crossroad. At that point the cliff will be visible and you may leave the track.
Number of routes: 4
Type of rock: sandstone
-PIETRA MAURA DI SAN LEO:
Travel directions: the distance from the Farm is 50 km and it takes around 1 hour by car. From country road SP 258, follow the signs to “Strada Panoramica” and turn right to all roudabouts until you get to a hairpin turn and see the hotel restaurant “Panoramic” on your right. Park your car here, cross the hairpin turn by walk and take the track that goes up on your right. After 50 m there is an open space with a wooden table. Leave the main track and take the one that goes down and that you find at the right of the table. You will get to the cliff in few minutes.
Number of routes: 22
Height: 600 m
Type of rock: the rock is calcarenite and it is quite solid along the routes. The routes have small holes and cuts which are very useful for learning how to place the feet and finding balance. The routes range from vertical, to almost flat with even a few overhangs. The use of a helmet is strongly recommended.
Travel directions: the distance from the Farm is 60 km and it takes around 1 hour and a half by car. Take European route E45 toward Cesena and take the exit “Sarsina”. Follow the signs to Novafeltria and then Verucchio. Once passed the town of Verucchio, turn left for Borgo S. Antonio and you will shortly arrive to the cliff.
Number of routes: 3.
Height: 300 m
Type of rock: calcarenite
Travel directions: the distance from the Farm is 60 km and it takes around one hour and a half by car. Take European route E45 toward Cesena and take the exit “Sarsina”. Follow the signs to Novafeltria.
There are two places for climbing:
1.Sasso Tanaccia: first reach Novafeltria and then Pietracuta. Once here, turn left toward San Leo and go on for about 6 km, passing the small town of Collina. Few meters after the sign “Ponte Gualdruccia” turn right and and look for a small street with indication “Tausano”.
After few hundreds meters you may park your car close to an abandoned house and take the dirt road on your right which heads for the cliff (it takes only few minutes).
2.Penna Rossa: first reach Novafeltria, then follow the signs to San Marino and finally to Via Penna Rossa. The road ends in a square opposite to an abandoned rural house. Go beyond the gate that is on the right of the house. Go up on the left of the track until you reach the ruins of a fortress. Go down the track that starts in front of the ruins and that is barely visible. You will see the peak rocks of the routes (go down on the left). The first routes are the shortest, but if you go down further you will reach Penna Rossa, Toro Seduto, Geronimo and Cavallo Pazzo.
Number of routes: 25.
Height: 750 m
Type of rock: calcarenite
“There are many ways to pray. And praying is a meditation. For Buddhists, praying is nothing but to forget everything, to be empty, and to be open for new experiences. But meditation is not our Western way. We are not able to do it. We have an active approach to life. But I think through climbing I reach the same goal. And in this way climbing is for me praying, because if I climb, I am so concentrated that I become empty and open for new experiences.”